There are highly individualized versions of spaghetti alla Nerano to be enjoyed. The dish exemplifies Italian cooking traditions here and elsewhere: take the simple riches of what grows nearby and make it as tasty as you can without a lot of fussiness. Its proper preparation demands greater attention to freshness and kitchen craftsmanship than to fancy ingredients.

Serves 4

newyorker.com

INGREDIENTS
6 medium zucchini, sliced into quarter-inch rounds
Sunflower oil, for frying
14 oz. spaghetti
1 clove garlic, minced (optional)
2 to 4 oz. grated cheese (such as aged Parmigiano Reggiano, Provolone del Monaco, or Caciocavallo)
1 bunch fresh basil leaves
A pat of butter (optional)
Ground black pepper, to taste

INSTRUCTIONS
Take thinly sliced zucchini rounds and deep-fry in sunflower oil until golden (or even slightly burnt).

Put fried zucchini on a paper towel to absorb oil; let sit in a bowl for a few hours to rest (or put in the fridge overnight). Before using, dab them again with a paper towel to remove excess moisture.

Boil spaghetti in lightly salted water until al dente. Save a cup of cooking water after draining spaghetti.

Reheat zucchini in a frying pan with optional minced garlic.

Place half of the zucchini into a clean pot or bowl, then add a few Tbsp. of cheese and a few Tbsp. of the pasta cooking water. Stir the mixture until cheese begins to melt. Add spaghetti, the rest of the zucchini, and cheese, and continue stirring until cheese and spaghetti water form a saucy emulsion. If the mixture seems too thick, add a bit more cooking broth. If it is too thin, add more cheese.