Today, pesto describes many sauces that don’t necessarily adhere to the traditional formula of cheese, basil, nuts and olive oil. Spicy Red Pesto Pasta, which is inspired by pesto alla Siciliana, the scarlet cousin of green pesto Genovese, leans on sun-dried tomatoes, nuts and tangy roasted red peppers and uses basil as a garnish only. Though pesto is traditionally pounded by hand, a food processor simplifies the effort. This pasta sauce is versatile: Crown it with lemon zest for brightness, or stir in heavy cream for extra richness. Should you find yourself with extra pesto, drizzle it over steak, slather it on sandwiches or serve it alongside a cheese board or crudités.

cooking.nytimes.com

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS
⅔ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup drained jarred, oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes (about 3½ ounces), roughly chopped
½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts (a scant 2½ ounces)
3 tablespoons double-concentrated tomato paste (or ⅓ cup tomato paste)
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
Kosher salt and black pepper
½ cup drained chopped, jarred roasted red peppers (about 4 ounces)
1½ ounces finely grated Parmesan (about 1 packed cup), plus more for serving
1 pound rigatoni, orecchiette or other shaped pasta
Sliced fresh basil leaves, for serving
Fresh lemon zest, for serving (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare the pesto: In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, walnuts, tomato paste, garlic and red-pepper flakes. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring, until mixture is toasted and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl to let cool for a few minutes.

Add the roasted red peppers and Parmesan to a food processor. Top with the cooled tomato mixture and the remaining ⅔ cup olive oil, and pulse the mixture until you form a paste. (It makes 2 cups.)

Season the boiling water generously with salt, then add the pasta and cook until al dente. Reserve 1½ cups pasta water, then drain the pasta.

Return the pasta to the pot, along with about 1½ cups of the red pesto and 1 cup of the pasta water, and stir vigorously until the sauce is glossy and the pasta is evenly coated. Stir in additional pesto or pasta water to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide among bowls, sprinkle with Parmesan and top with torn basil. Shave some fresh lemon zest on top, if using. Serve immediately.

Tachin is a Persian rice dish in which the rice is mixed with yogurt, oil, egg yolks and saffron and baked until a golden crust forms at the bottom (Persians refer to this as the tahdig). The rice on the inside becomes buttery and almost cake-like and is often layered with chicken and barberries, a tart dried fruit that has a beautiful crimson color. This version incorporates common Thanksgiving ingredients like rosemary, sweet-tart cranberries and buttery onions to make a striking dish that feels more like a main than a side. It’s deeply savory and buttery, like stuffing, and some may say even better because it has a whole lot more texture coming from the crispy rice that everyone will be fighting over.

cooking.nytimes.com

Serves 6-8

INGREDIENTS
2 cups basmati rice
Salt and black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons neutral oil (such as vegetable or canola), plus more for the pie dish
2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
1 cup dried cranberries or dried cherries
2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary
1 teaspoon saffron threads
3 egg yolks
1 cup plain full-fat yogurt (not Greek)

INSTRUCTIONS
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, place the rice in a large bowl and fill with lukewarm water. Use your hands to agitate the rice in the water. Tip the water out, refill and repeat 2 to 4 times until the water is mostly clear; drain.

When the pot of water is boiling, season generously with salt. Add the rice and give it a few stirs to prevent sticking. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice begins to rise to the top and is tender but still has a slight bite to it, 4 to 8 minutes. (The timing varies depending on how aged the rice is). Drain the rice in a colander and rinse with cold water.

While the rice cooks, start the onions: Heat the butter and 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet over medium high. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are deep golden brown and smell delicious, 12 to 15 minutes. Turn off the heat, add the cranberries and give everything a few stirs to warm and plump the cranberries. Scoop out and set aside about ½ cup for garnishing. Stir the rosemary into the remaining onion mixture and set aside as well.

Adjust oven rack to the lower-third position and heat the oven to 400 degrees. Finely grind the saffron threads in a mortar using a pestle or in a small bowl using the back of a spoon. Transfer the saffron to a large bowl and pour in 2 tablespoons of hot water. Let sit for 5 minutes to draw out as much color as possible. Using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, mix in the yolks, yogurt and remaining ⅓ cup oil; season with salt. Add the rice and gently toss until every grain is coated and stained yellow.

Lightly coat a deep 10-inch glass pie dish with oil (an 8- or 9-inch square glass baking dish will also work). Add about a third of the rice mixture and use the palms of your hands or a measuring cup to gently pack and spread the rice. Fold the rosemary-onion mixture into the remaining rice in the bowl, then add that to the pie pan. Gently press down again so that the surface is flat.

Cover the dish tightly with foil and bake until rice on the bottom and around edges has formed a deep golden brown crust, 65 to 80 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before uncovering. Place a large plate or platter on top, and using kitchen towels, firmly grab both sides of the plate and pie dish together, then carefully invert the rice onto the plate. Scatter the reserved cranberry-onion mixture over the top and serve.

Caramelized Brussels Sprouts Pasta is a fast and satisfying vegetarian weeknight pasta that packs in a whole pound of brussels sprouts. The mountain of shredded sprouts may seem like a lot, but like spinach, it will cook down. As the sprouts soften, they caramelize and naturally sweeten, losing any hints of bitterness. Chickpeas are toasted in olive oil until deep golden brown, crispy in spots and super toasty. They bring a nutty, earthy flavor to the dish, complementing the tangy capers and lemony sauce. Leftovers are tasty enjoyed cold like pasta salad, added to a frittata, or sautéed in olive oil until golden and topped with a fried egg.

cooking.nytimes.com

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS
Kosher salt and black pepper
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed and patted dry
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 pound brussels sprouts, trimmed and very thinly sliced (about 5 tightly packed cups)
8 ounces dried tagliatelle pasta
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan (about 1½ ounces), plus more for serving
2 tablespoons drained capers
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
¼ cup chopped fresh chives

INSTRUCTIONS
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, in a Dutch oven or a large, deep skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium. Add chickpeas, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden and well toasted, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chickpeas to a paper towel-lined plate.

Add the butter, garlic and 2 tablespoons of the oil to the Dutch oven and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add brussels sprouts, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook pasta according to package directions in the boiling water until al dente. Drain, reserving 2 cups of the pasta water.

Add the pasta, 1 cup reserved pasta water, about ¾ of the toasted chickpeas and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the Dutch oven. Stir in the Parmesan, capers, lemon juice, red-pepper flakes and half the chives until well incorporated and saucy, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add more pasta water if a thinner sauce is desired.

Divide pasta among bowls. Top with remaining toasted chickpeas and chives. Garnish with more black pepper and Parmesan.

There are a few cool tricks to this Enchiladas Con Carne recipe, one of which Sam Sifton picked up from an old issue of Bon Appétit, one he learned from Robb Walsh, the great Tex-Mex scholar and restaurateur who runs El Real Tex-Mex in Houston, and a final one Sifton learned by happenstance. First, for the thickening agent in the chile sauce, toast raw all-purpose flour in a pan until it is nutty and golden brown, then reserve it to stir in with the browned beef later in the recipe. Second, if you like truly melty cheese in the classic Tex-Mex tradition, use a mixture of American cheese, like Velveeta, with the Cheddar you use inside and on top of the finished enchiladas.

cooking.nytimes.com

Serves 4-6

INGREDIENTS
FOR THE CHILI CON CARNE
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons neutral oil, like canola
1 pound ground chuck beef, ideally 20 percent fat
Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste
1 medium white onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 jalapeño pepper or more to taste, seeds removed if you want it less spicy, stemmed and chopped
1 cup chopped or canned crushed tomatoes
3 tablespoons chile powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon dried oregano, ideally Mexican
2 cups chicken stock, ideally homemade or low-sodium if store-bought

FOR THE ENCHILADAS
½ cup neutral oil, like canola
12 yellow corn tortillas
3 cups shredded Cheddar cheese, or a mixture of 1½ cups Cheddar cheese and 1½ cups American cheese, like Velveeta
1 medium-size white onion, peeled and chopped (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS
Prepare the chili con carne: Put flour in a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until it begins to turn golden brown and smell nutty, then pour it onto a plate to cool.

Wipe out sauté pan and return it to high heat with 2 tablespoons oil. When oil is hot and shimmery, add ground beef to pan, and cook, breaking it up with a fork and stirring, until it is well browned, about 12 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then use a slotted spoon to remove meat to a bowl, leaving drippings behind.

Add onion, garlic and jalapeño to pan and cook, stirring to scrape up any browned bits of meat, for 10 to 12 minutes, or until vegetables are soft. Stir in tomatoes and cook until their liquid has evaporated, then add chile powder, cumin and oregano and stir to combine. After a minute or so, when mixture begins to turn fragrant, return browned meat to pan, along with toasted flour, and stir well to combine.

Lower heat to medium-high and slowly stir in chicken stock, ½ cup at a time, until mixture has thickened and started to simmer. Lower heat again and allow chili to cook slowly for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until meat is tender. Add more stock or water if needed. Use immediately, or let cool, cover and refrigerate for up to a few days.

When you are ready to cook the enchiladas, heat oven to 425 degrees. In a medium sauté pan set over medium-high heat, heat ½ cup neutral oil until it begins to shimmer. Using tongs or a wide spatula, place a tortilla in the hot fat; it should start to bubble immediately. Heat tortilla for about 10 seconds a side, until soft and lightly browned. Remove tortilla and set on a rack set over a baking pan, or just on a baking pan if you don’t have a rack. Repeat with remaining tortillas, working quickly.

Assemble the enchiladas: Using a ladle, put about ½ cup chili in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and spread it out a little. Roll a few tablespoons of cheese into each tortilla, along with a tablespoon or so of chili, then place it seam-side down in the pan, nestling each one against the last. Ladle remaining chili over top of rolled tortillas and sprinkle with remaining cheese.

Transfer to oven and bake until sauce bubbles and cheese is melted, about 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle chopped onions over the top, if using, and serve immediately.

Butternut squash gets roasted, puréed, then tossed with Parmesan to make this nutty, creamy pasta sauce – Creamy Butternut Squash Pasta With Sage and Walnuts. Each serving is topped with crispy fried sage leaves, a hint of lemon zest, and toasted walnuts, adding a crunchy contrast to the squash. Feel free to forgo wrestling with a giant squash and use a package of cubed precut squash instead.

Creamy Butternut Squash Pasta With Sage and Walnuts

Serves 4-6

INGREDIENTS
2½ pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into ¾-inch pieces
2 garlic cloves
5 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and black pepper
¾ packed cup fresh sage leaves
¾ cup chopped walnuts
1 lemon, zested (about 1 tablespoon)
1 cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock, plus more as needed
1 pound short pasta, such as gemelli, casarecce or penne
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

INSTRUCTIONS
Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the squash and garlic on a sheet pan. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Toss well and roast until the squash is very tender, 30 to 35 minutes, tossing twice throughout. While the squash roasts, bring a large pot of water to boil.

Meanwhile, in a large (12-inch) skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium. When the oil is hot, add the sage and cook, tossing often, until the leaves begin to crisp, about 1 minute. Add the walnuts and a generous sprinkle of salt and cook, tossing often, until the sage leaves are lightly browned and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sage and nuts to a paper towel-lined plate and wipe out the skillet. Let the mixture drain for 1 minute, then add it to a small bowl with the lemon zest; toss lightly and set aside.

Working in batches if necessary, transfer the roasted squash and garlic to a blender or food processor, along with 1 cup stock, and blend until smooth and thick. The consistency should be somewhere between a purée and a thick soup. Add more stock as needed, if it seems too thick.

Transfer the puréed squash to the reserved skillet and keep warm over very low heat. Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling water, along with 1 tablespoon salt, and cook until al dente. Just before draining, ladle ½ cup pasta water into a measuring cup and set aside.

Drain the pasta and add it to the sauce. Toss to coat the pasta evenly, then, off the heat, add the ½ cup Parmesan and toss until the cheese is incorporated. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved pasta water if the sauce seems too thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide the pasta among shallow bowls and sprinkle the sage, walnut and lemon zest mixture on top, and serve with extra Parmesan on the side.

The rhyme rings true: Sue Li’s Lemony Shrimp and Bean Stew recipe is quick to make and a delight to eat. In a velvety mix of white beans simmered with browned leeks and plump, tender shrimp, she pairs smoked paprika with lemon juice for a bright and earthy edge. She says it serves four but, let’s be real, that’s just a suggestion.

Serves 2-4

New York Times

INGREDIENTS
1 tsp. fresh lemon zest, plus 2 Tbs juice
1 tsp. sweet paprika
2 garlic cloves, grated
Kosher salt and black pepper
1 pound peeled, deveined large shrimp (tails removed)
4 Tbs. unsalted butter (1/2 stick)
2 large leeks, trimmed, then halved lengthwise, white and green parts sliced crosswise 1/2 inch thick
1 (15 oz) can cannellini beans, rinsed
2 cups chicken broth
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh parsley
Toasted bread for serving

INSTRUCTIONS
Combine lemon zest, paprika, garlic, 3/4 tsp. salt and 3/4 tsp. pepper in a medium bowl. Add shrimp and toss to coat.

In a large pot, melt butter over medium-high heat. When butter is foaming, add shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until pink and starting to curl, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer shrimp to a plate; set aside.

Add leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium until leeks are soft and starting to brown on the edges, 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add beans and chicken broth and bring to a boil over high. Lower heat and simmer, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in reserved shrimp and any juices from the plate, parsley, and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Serve with toasted bread.

The star of garlic scape pesto is the garlic plant’s underappreciated second offering: the fleeting garlic scape. The ingredients are straightforward except for the substitution of sunflower seeds for pine nuts. The seeds are a fraction of the cost and do the job just as well. A food processor is a must for this recipe.

For pesto, ingredient order matters. Start with the scapes and process for about 30 seconds. Add the seeds until they are broken down and mixed well with the scapes. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula for wandering bits. Next, pour in the olive oil.

If you have Parmesan cheese in chunks, add it now, but if it is grated, wait until the scapes and seeds smooth out. If you’re serving right away, add the basil and lemon juice. If not, hold back on the basil for now — otherwise the pesto will lose its vibrant color. Add generously to cooked spaghetti or spread on crusty bread.

Yield 1 cup

cooking.nytimes.com

INGREDIENTS
1 cup garlic scapes, sliced crosswise (about 10 to 12 scapes)
¼ cup raw sunflower seeds
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup Parmesan cheese
½ cup basil leaves
Juice of one lemon

INSTRUCTIONS
Place the garlic scapes in a food processor and pulse for 30 seconds.

Add the sunflower seeds and pulse for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Add the olive oil and process on high for 15 seconds.

Add the Parmesan cheese and pulse until the ingredients are combined.

Add the basil and lemon juice, and process until reaching the desired consistency.

Add salt to taste and serve immediately.

Wholesome and nutty in flavor, barley makes a superb alternative to arborio rice when making risotto, since it’s a grain that’s naturally plump and chewy when cooked. Make sure to use pearl barley, not hulled barley, since it cooks much faster and is more tender. The best thing about this risotto is that it’s baked, taking away the pressure of constant stirring at the stove. The grated Parmesan and butter stirred in at the end release the barley’s starches, creating a silky, creamy texture. White button, cremini and earthy shiitakes make a tasty, accessible combination, but any combination of oyster, king trumpet and maitake mushrooms would raise the bar. This risotto is a satisfying vegetarian weeknight dinner, but could also accompany any large roast or baked fish.

Serves 4

nytimes.com

INGREDIENTS
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ small white or yellow onion , finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 pound mixed mushrooms , such as white button, cremini and shiitakes, halved if small, quartered if large (about 7 cups total)
Kosher salt and black pepper
10 ounces pearl barley (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 medium carrot , very thinly sliced into rounds (about 1 cup)
2 ounces grated Parmesan (about 1/2 cup), plus more for serving
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup chopped fresh chives

INSTRUCTIONS
Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium. Add onion and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms start to soften, about 3 minutes.

Stir in barley, carrot and 4 1/2 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, transfer to the oven and bake until barley is tender and chewy and almost all of the liquid is absorbed, about 30 minutes.

Stir in Parmesan and the butter until slightly thickened and creamy. Season with salt and pepper.

Divide among shallow bowls. Sprinkle with chives and additional Parmesan, to taste.