White Beans Puttanesca – Puttanesca is usually a pasta sauce, but here the addition of beans to the spicy blend of tomatoes, basil, and olives turns it into a versatile, satisfying side dish.

Serves 4

epicurious.com

INGREDIENTS
2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon drained capers, chopped
1 (19-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1/4 cup chopped basil

INSTRUCTIONS
Cook anchovies, garlic, and red-pepper flakes in oil in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring, until anchovies dissolve, about 1 minute.

Stir in tomatoes with olives and capers and cook until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes.

Stir in beans and simmer 3 minutes. Add basil.

Bigos is an Eastern European stew that has many adaptations; some versions incorporate rice and/or a variety of vegetables and meats, so you can use whatever you have on hand. This version is a Polish hunter’s stew that features kielbasa, smoky bacon, melty cabbage, and lots of delicious broth that can be sopped up with bread.

Serves 12

bonappetit.com

INGREDIENTS
1 lb. double-smoked slab bacon, cut into 1″ cubes
1½ lb. kielbasa sausage, sliced on a diagonal ½” thick
8 garlic cloves, crushed
3 Tbsp. double concentrated tomato paste
1 Tbsp. paprika
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. ground cumin
¾ tsp. cayenne pepper
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 small head of green cabbage (about 2 lb.), cored, thinly sliced
2 large carrots, peeled, sliced 1½” thick
1 Pink Lady apple, cored, grated on the large holes of a box grater
2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed, cut into 1″ pieces
1 lb. sauerkraut (not drained; about 2 cups)
4 cups homemade beef stock or water
Small dill sprigs, dark rye or pumpernickel bread, and unsalted butter (for serving)

INSTRUCTIONS
Cook bacon in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium heat, stirring often, until brown and crisp, 10–12 minutes. Transfer bacon to a small bowl with a slotted spoon; set aside. Cook kielbasa in bacon fat in pot, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl with tongs; set aside.

Reduce heat to medium-low, add garlic to same pot, and cook, stirring often, until just beginning to turn golden brown, about 3 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until paste darkens slightly in color and begins to stick to pot, about 2 minutes. Add paprika, coriander, cumin, and cayenne and cook, stirring constantly, just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Immediately add onions and turn to coat. Increase heat to medium-high, pour in wine, and cook, scraping up browned bits from bottom of pot, until smell of the alcohol cooks off, about 3 minutes. Stir in salt, then add cabbage, carrots, apple, potatoes, sauerkraut, stock, and reserved bacon. Bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer gently, mixing well halfway through, 1 hour. Mix in reserved kielbasa. Cover and cook until bacon is tender, cabbage is meltingly soft, and potatoes are cooked through, 30–60 minutes.

Divide stew among bowls. Top with dill. Serve with bread and butter alongside.

Do Ahead: Stew can be made 1 week ahead (flavor will improve as time goes on). Cover and chill.

A hearty bowl of Hoppin’ John has been the way that many Southern households ring in the New Year. Served alongside a side of collard greens and cornbread, this meal signifies a year filled with good fortune and security.

Serves 4-6

INGREDIENTS
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil (if using ham hock)
1 smoked ham hock or 8 oz. slab bacon, cut into ¼” pieces
1 small onion, finely chopped
½ green bell pepper, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1¼ cups dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight, drained
1 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning
2 tsp. dried thyme
1 bay leaf
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt
Cooked long-grain rice (such as Carolina)
thinly sliced scallions (for serving)

INSTRUCTIONS
If using ham hock, heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. If using bacon, cook in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until bacon is crisp, 8–10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate. Carefully pour out all but 2 Tbsp. fat from pot.

Add onion, bell pepper, and celery to pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add black-eyed peas, Cajun seasoning, dried thyme, bay leaf, and ham hock (if using), then pour in broth. Bring to a rolling boil, then reduce heat and cover pot. Simmer until peas are tender but not mushy, 1–1½ hours.

Drain pea mixture in a fine-mesh sieve; discard cooking liquid and bay leaf. Return pea mixture to pot, add pepper. If using bacon, return to pot and stir to combine. If using ham hock, remove from pot and let cool slightly. Pull meat from bone and return to pot; discard bone. Taste and season with salt.

Divide rice among bowls and top with a ladleful of peas. Scatter scallions over.

To really build the flavor (and keep anything from getting too mushy), ingredients are added in stages, and the sage goes in at two different times. Things do move quickly, though, so it’s best to chop everything before you begin.

Serves 8-10

epicurious.com (Link may not work)

INGREDIENTS
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, plus more for pan
½ cup (packed) chopped sage, divided
1¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more
1 large white onion, chopped
2 large carrots, peeled, chopped
4 celery heart stalks, leaves removed, chopped
1 Pink Lady or other sweet-tart apple, scrubbed, cored, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1½ cups chopped crimini mushrooms
3 cups unsalted vegetable stock or broth
1 tsp. onion powder
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
Freshly ground black pepper
2 (11-oz.) stale baguettes, cut or torn into ¾” pieces (about 12 cups)
1 cup dried cranberries

INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 3½–4-qt. baking dish; set aside. Melt 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add ¼ cup (packed) chopped sage, season with ¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or Morton kosher salt, and stir to combine. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 1 large white onion, chopped, 2 large carrots, peeled, chopped, and 4 celery heart stalks, leaves removed, chopped. Increase heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are slightly softened and onion is translucent, 5–7 minutes.

Add 1 Pink Lady or other sweet-tart apple, scrubbed, cored, chopped, 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped, 1½ cups chopped crimini mushrooms, 3 cups unsalted vegetable stock or broth, 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, 1 tsp. onion powder, ½ tsp. cayenne pepper, and remaining ¼ cup (packed) chopped sage; season with freshly ground black pepper. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors have come together, 5–7 minutes. Remove from heat and dip a piece of bread from two 11-oz. stale baguettes, cut or torn into ¾” pieces (about 12 cups), into the liquid; taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed.

Add 1 cup dried cranberries and remaining bread to vegetable mixture and mix until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Transfer dressing to prepared baking dish and bake, uncovered, until top is golden brown, 45–50 minutes.

Do ahead: Dressing (before baking) can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Bring to room temperature and bake before serving.

When you truss a bird, the wings and legs stay close to the body; the ends of the drumsticks cover the top of the breast and keep it from drying out. Trussing helps the chicken to cook evenly, and it also makes for a more beautiful roasted bird.

From Epicurious, Thomas Keller recipe

INGREDIENTS
One 2- to 3-pound farm-raised chicken
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp. minced thyme (optional)
Unsalted butter
Dijon mustard

INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Rinse the chicken, then dry it very well with paper towels, inside and out. The less it steams, the drier the heat, the better.

Salt and pepper the cavity, then truss the bird. Trussing is not difficult, and if you roast chicken often, it’s a good technique to feel comfortable with. When you truss a bird, the wings and legs stay close to the body; the ends of the drumsticks cover the top of the breast and keep it from drying out. Trussing helps the chicken to cook evenly, and it also makes for a more beautiful roasted bird.

Now, salt the chicken—I like to rain the salt over the bird so that it has a nice uniform coating that will result in a crisp, salty, flavorful skin (about 1 Tbsp.). When it’s cooked, you should still be able to make out the salt baked onto the crisp skin. Season to taste with pepper.

Place the chicken breast side up in a sauté pan or roasting pan and, when the oven is up to temperature, put the chicken in the oven. I leave it alone—I don’t baste it, I don’t add butter; you can if you wish, but I feel this creates steam, which I don’t want. Roast it until it’s done, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove it from the oven and add the thyme, if using, to the pan. Baste the chicken with the pan juices and thyme and let it rest for 15 minutes on a cutting board.

Remove the twine. Separate the middle wing joint and eat that immediately. Remove the legs and thighs. I like to take off the backbone and eat one of the oysters, the two succulent morsels of meat embedded here, and give the other to the person I’m cooking with. But I take the chicken butt for myself. I could never understand why my brothers always fought over that triangular tip—until one day I got the crispy, juicy fat myself. These are the cook’s rewards. Cut the breast down the middle and serve it on the bone, with one wing joint still attached to each. The preparation is not meant to be super elegant. Slather the meat with fresh butter. Serve with mustard on the side and, if you wish, a simple green salad. You’ll start using a knife and fork, but finish with your fingers, because it’s so good.

It’s simpler and more forgiving than lasagna but still delivers comforting bites full of pulls of mozzarella and those much coveted crunchy corners.

Serves 6

bonappetit.com

INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2¼ cups whole milk, slightly warmed
2½ cups grated Parmesan, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
¼ cup olive oil
1 ounce pancetta (Italian bacon), finely chopped
1 large onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 28-ounce can plus 1 14-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes
¼ cup chopped fresh basil
1 pound ziti, penne, or rigatoni
1 pound fresh mozzarella, cut into ½-inch pieces

INSTRUCTIONS
Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium until foamy. Sprinkle flour over and cook, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Gradually whisk in warm milk. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, whisking often, until béchamel is thickened to about the consistency of heavy cream and no longer feels grainy when rubbed between your fingers, 8–10 minutes (thoroughly cooking the mixture ensures a creamy sauce and eliminates any raw flour flavor). Remove from heat and add 2 cups Parmesan, whisking until cheese is melted and sauce is smooth. Set aside.

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Cook pancetta, stirring often, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until onion is golden and soft, 8–10 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 2 minutes.

Add whole peeled tomatoes, crushing with your hands as you go, and season with salt and pepper. Bring sauce to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until slightly reduced and flavors have melded, 20–25 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer to a blender; pulse until mostly smooth (or use an immersion blender and purée directly in pot). Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, about 5 minutes (the pasta will continue to cook in the oven); drain.

Transfer reserved béchamel to a large bowl; add pasta and mozzarella and toss to combine. Add all but 1 cup tomato sauce and gently fold mixture a few times, leaving streaks of béchamel.

Transfer pasta mixture to a 13×9-inch or other 3-quart baking dish, dollop with remaining tomato sauce, and scatter remaining Parmesan over pasta. Bake until mozzarella is melted and sauce is bubbling around the edges, 15–20 minutes.

Heat broiler. Broil until pasta and cheese are dark brown in spots, about 4 minutes. Let pasta sit 5 minutes before serving.

Pissaladière is a classic dish in Provence. Its thin pizza-like crust is piled high with caramelized onions, then topped with anchovies, olives, and fresh herbs.

Serves 12

bonappetit.com

INGREDIENTS
Topping:
¼ cup (1/2 stick) butter
6 lbs. onions, thinly sliced
6 fresh thyme sprigs
4 fresh rosemary sprigs
2 bay leaves
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Crust:
1 cup warm water (105°F to 115°F)
1 tablespoon dry yeast (from 2 envelopes)
1 teaspoon sugar
2 ¾ cups (or more) all purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Yellow cornmeal

20 drained anchovy fillets
20 oil-cured black olives, pitted
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

INSTRUCTIONS
For topping: Preheat oven to 350°F. Place butter on heavy large rimmed baking sheet; place in oven until butter melts, about 5 minutes. Spread half of onions on baking sheet; top with 3 thyme sprigs, 2 rosemary sprigs and 1 bay leaf. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons oil. Top with remaining onions, 3 thyme sprigs, 2 rosemary sprigs, and 1 bay leaf. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons oil (onion layer will be about 2 1/2 inches thick but will settle during baking). Bake until onions are very tender and golden, stirring and turning every 30 minutes, about 2 hours total. Cool. Discard herb sprigs and bay leaves. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill. Bring to room temperature before using.)

For crust: Pour 1 cup warm water into small bowl; sprinkle yeast and sugar over. Stir to blend. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Blend 2 3/4 cups flour and salt in processor. Add yeast mixture and 2 tablespoons oil; process until dough clumps together, adding more flour by tablespoonfuls if dough is sticky. Process until shiny ball forms, about 1 minute. Turn dough out onto floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Coat large bowl with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add dough to bowl; turn to coat with oil. Cover with plastic wrap, then kitchen towel. Let rise in warm draft-free area until doubled in volume, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch down dough; cover and let rise until puffed and almost doubled, about 1 hour.

Sprinkle heavy 17x11x1-inch baking sheet with cornmeal. Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 18×12-inch rectangle. Transfer to prepared baking sheet; press edges of dough up along sides and corners of sheet. Cover with dry kitchen towel; let rise until slightly puffed, 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 475°F. Spread onions over top of dough. Arrange anchovies and olives atop. Bake until crust is golden, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with thyme. Cut into 3-inch squares. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Can be made 4 hours ahead; let stand at room temperature.)

= = =

Pissaladiere | Provençal Onion Tart

June 1998

This crisp and flavorful onion tart — served at room temperature — hits the spot on
a sweltering summer’s day, when served with a chilled glass of rosé. Note that the
bread dough is brushed with a salt/oil/water mixture as it rises, resulting in a
flavorful, crisp, dough. The name, by the way, comes from the Provençal word
“pissalat,” which was a fish-based condiment used to flavor many preparations.
The condiment changed over the centuries, and nowadays has come to represent
a combination of anchovies and thyme.

SERVINGS: MAKES 20 APPETIZER SERVINGS

1 pound Basic Bread Dough
2 tablespoons water
Fine sea salt
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 medium white onions (about 3/4 pound), cut into thin rings
6 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled and halved
Bouquet garni: a generous bunch of parsley, celery leaves, fresh
bay leaves and thyme sprigs tied in a bundle with cotton twine
2 ounces best-quality black olives, pitted and halved
8 anchovy fillets — drained, rinsed and soaked in milk for 15 minutes
1/2 teaspoon fresh or dried thyme

1. Preheat oven to 450°. Roll the dough into an 11 x 15 inch rectangle and place it
on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Prick the dough all over with a fork. In a small bowl,
combine the water, 1 tablespoon of salt and 2 tablespoons of the oil; brush over
the dough. Let the dough rise for about 30 minutes.

2. In a large, heavy skillet, combine the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil with
onions, garlic, bouquet garni, and 1 teaspoon salt. Sweat, covered, over low heat
until the onions are soft and cooked through, about 30 minutes; they should not
brown. Discard the bouquet garni and spread the onion mixture evenly over the
bread dough.

3. Bake the pissaladière in the center of the oven until evenly browned and crisp,
about 20 minutes. (Be careful not to burn the onions. Reduce the oven
temperature if necessary.) Remove from the oven and arrange the olives and
anchovies in an even pattern over the onions. Sprinkle with thyme. Serve warm or
at room temperature, cut into rectangles.

–Patricia Wells

Basic Bread Dough

June 1998

SERVINGS: MAKES ENOUGH DOUGH FOR 15 ROLLS, 1 BREAD TART OR 5 SMALL PIZZAS

1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
1 1/3 cups lukewarm water
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
About 3 3/4 cups bread flour

1. In the bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the
yeast, sugar, and 1/3 cup of the water; stir to blend. Let stand until foamy, about 5
minutes.

2. Stir in the remaining 1 cup water, the oil and the salt. Add the flour, a little at a
time, mixing at the medium speed until most of the flour has been incorporated
and the dough forms a ball. Continue to knead the dough until soft and satiny but
still firm, 4 to 5 minutes, add more flour if necessary to keep the dough from
sticking.

3. Transfer the dough to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let rise in the
refrigerator until doubled or tripled in bulk, 8 to 12 hours. (The dough can be kept
for 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator. Simply punch it down as it doubles or triples.)

If you aren’t able to grill outdoors, lamb can be roasted on a rack set in a large (17- by 11-inch) roasting pan in a 375°F oven, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

Serves 8

Gourmet 2007

INGREDIENTS
4 large garlic cloves
1 ½ teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
5 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon black pepper
½ teaspoon ground allspice
1 (6 1/2- to 7-lb) bone-in leg of lamb, trimmed of all but a thin layer of fat

INSTRUCTIONS
Mince garlic, then mash to a paste with salt. Stir together garlic paste, oil, lemon zest and juice, thyme, pepper, and allspice. Put lamb, fat side up, in a large ceramic or glass dish. Using a paring knife, make 1 1/2-inch-long slits (about 2 inches deep) 2 inches apart all over leg. Reserve 1 teaspoon thyme mixture and push remainder into slits, then rub all over with reserved teaspoon of mixture. Marinate lamb, covered and chilled, 12 hours.

Let lamb stand at room temperature 30 minutes before grilling.

Prepare grill for indirect-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal (high heat for gas). If using a gas grill, preheat all burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then turn off all burners except burner closest to you.

Oil grill rack, then grill lamb over area with no coals (or over turned-off burner or burners), covered, without turning, until thermometer inserted into thickest part of roast (almost to the bone but not touching it) registers 125°F for medium-rare, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours (temperatures in thinner parts of leg may register up to 160°F). To maintain medium-hot charcoal, add more charcoal (about 2 cups) every 15 minutes.

Let lamb stand on a cutting board, uncovered, 30 minutes.

This bread has a nutty flavor and intense chew; it makes toast that’s a wholesome meal unto itself. To ensure you have fresh bread on time, count back three nights from the day you want to bake. If you want bread on Saturday, start Wednesday night. Bake it anytime Saturday. This is part of [BA’s Best](bonappetit.com/best), a collection of our essential recipes.

bonappetit.com

INGREDIENTS
⅛ teaspoon active dry yeast
117 grams (¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons) whole wheat flour
75 grams (⅔ cup) rye flour
42 grams (6 tablespoons) all-purpose flour, preferably high protein (around 11%; such as King Arthur)
103 grams (¾ cup) whole wheat flour
412 grams (3 cups plus 1 tablespoon) all-purpose flour, preferably high protein (around 11%; such as King Arthur), plus more for dusting
17 grams (2 tablespoons Diamond Crystal) kosher salt
Rice flour or a 50/50 mix of all-purpose flour and cornstarch (for dusting)

INSTRUCTIONS
Poolish: Combine yeast and 300 g (1¼ cups) room-temperature water in the bowl of a stand mixer. Take the temperature of your kitchen—between 72° and 74° is ideal for fermentation. If your kitchen is running hot, use cool water. If it’s a bit colder, use warm water. Add all the flours and mix with a wooden spoon until no dry spots remain. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until poolish is mature (surface will be very bubbly), 14–18 hours.

Drop a pinch of poolish into a small bowl of room-temperature water. If it floats, it’s mature, and you’re good to go. If it sinks, wait 30 minutes and test again.

Dough: Combine 300 g (1¼ cups) room-temperature water into poolish with a sturdy wooden spoon. Add whole wheat flour and 412 g (3 cups plus 1 Tbsp.) all-purpose flour and mix until no dry spots remain. Cover dough with plastic wrap and let sit 2 hours. (This ­process, called autolysis, starts to develop the all-important gluten, giving the dough structure and chew.)

Evenly sprinkle salt over dough, then add 65 g (¼ cup plus 1 tsp.) room-temperature water and mix with dough hook on medium-low speed. The dough should start to develop a shape and cling to hook after a minute or two. Increase speed to medium-high and mix until almost all the dough clings to hook and clears the sides of the bowl, 8–12 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit 15 minutes to let dough relax.

Turn out dough on a clean surface. Holding a flexible bench scraper in one hand, quickly lift dough eye-level then slap it down on surface in one swift, deliberate motion. As you propel dough downward, let it fall off the ends of your hands and fold over onto itself; the dough will be sticky, but it will want to stick to itself more than your hands. Start slowly to avoid flying dough bits, then increase the intensity of your motion as the dough starts to firm up. Slap and fold 10–12 ­minutes, occasionally scraping bits of dough from surface with bench scraper. (If you’re not slightly winded by the time the dough is ready, you’re doing it wrong.) This important step builds gluten and strengthens the dough, which helps give the ­finished loaf a nice open crumb.

Pinch off a small piece of dough and stretch it between your thumbs and index fingers on both hands. The dough should be able to stretch thin enough to let light through without breaking. If it splits or tears, the gluten is not yet developed enough. Continue slapping and folding another 2 minutes and test again.

Place dough in a large clean bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let sit 30 minutes. Starting from one side, use a bench scraper to lift edge of dough, stretching it up and out of the bowl at least 12″ and shaking back and forth to encourage lengthening, then fold back onto itself. Rotate the bowl 90°. Repeat stretching process 3 more times, rotating the bowl after each turn. Cover and rest another 30 minutes. Repeat process 2 more times, resting dough 30 minutes in between each full turn. (This rebuilds gluten and feeds the yeast during fermentation.) Cover dough with plastic wrap and let sit in a warm spot until nearly doubled in size, 30–60 minutes. Dough should look puffed and bubbly on the surface.

To test if your dough is fermented, poke it with an oiled finger. The dough should spring back slowly but still hold a slight indentation.

Turn out dough onto a lightly floured (use all-purpose) surface and do a final series of 4 folds, bringing edges into the center. Turn dough over, using bench scraper to help you, so seam side is down. Lightly dust with more flour and cover with a kitchen towel. Let rest until dough is puffed and surface is dotted with a few bubbles, 20–50 minutes.

Line a 9″ round colander with a clean kitchen towel and dust towel with an even layer of rice flour.

Uncover dough and dust with a bit more all-purpose flour. Use bench scraper to push edges of dough toward the center to gather into a ball. Cup scraper and free hand around far side of dough and gently pull ball toward you, dragging dough several inches across work ­surface and rotating slightly. Repeat dragging motion several times, occasionally moving dough back to center of surface. The friction against the surface will help tighten the gluten over the dough, creating a smooth dome. Lightly flour top of dough, turn over with bench scraper, and quickly transfer, seam side up, to prepared colander; cover with ­plastic. Chill 1–2 days. The ­longer the bread sits, the more complex the flavor will be, but don’t chill longer or the yeast may die.

Place an oven rack in lower third of oven and set a 3½–5½-qt. Dutch oven in center of rack. Set your oven as high as it will go (you want it between 450° and 500°). Let pot preheat at least 40 minutes. (If the handle on the lid is made of ­plastic, unscrew, remove, and plug hole with a small piece of foil.)

Uncover dough and dust surface with rice flour. Cut a round of parchment paper so it’s slightly larger than dough; place over top. Remove pot from oven and set on stovetop.

Working on stove next to Dutch oven, invert dough onto a plate (parchment side will be down). Use a lame or a razor blade taped to an ice-pop stick to slash dough in desired pattern, using swift and deliberate strokes to cut at least ½” deep into dough. Working quickly and wearing mitts on both hands, slide dough and parchment into center of pot. Cover pot and bake bread 15 minutes. Remove lid and ­continue to bake, rotating pot halfway through, until crust is very well done—approaching the edge of burnt—30–40 minutes. Carefully ­transfer bread to a wire rack. When it’s cool enough to handle, remove parchment.

Resist the temptation to cut into that just-out-of-the-oven loaf. Trust us. You want to wait at least a couple of hours so the starches in the bread have time to set. This gives the bread a better texture. If you’re dead set on eating it warm, reheat part of the loaf in a 300° oven (which will also revive the crust), then slice.

There are as many variations of empanadas as there are cooks in Argentina. This version was developed by BA Test Kitchen Manager Gaby Melian, who is from Buenos Aires and was taught as a little girl by family members how to make them. After years of perfecting her method, she prefers the empanadas baked, not fried, and the addition of green olives and raisins in the filling is essential.

Makes about 36

bonappetit.com

INGREDIENTS
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 lb. ground beef (20% fat)
2 medium onions, chopped
2 small red bell peppers, seeded, chopped
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
3 Tbsp. ground cumin
2 Tbsp. sweet paprika
1 Tbsp. dried oregano
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
1½ cups low-sodium chicken stock or broth
2 tsp. sugar
½ cup raisins
3 packages (12 each) Puff Pastry Dough for Turnovers/Empanadas (preferably Goya)
½ cup pitted green olives (Picholine or Spanish), rinsed well, cut in half lengthwise

INSTRUCTIONS
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large pot over high. Cook beef, breaking up with a spoon, until browned but not completely cooked through, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving as much fat in pan as possible.

Reduce heat to medium and cook onion, bell peppers, and remaining 1 Tbsp. oil, stirring, until tender but not browned, 6–8 minutes; season with salt and black pepper. Add cumin, paprika, oregano, and cayenne and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chicken stock and reserved beef along with any accumulated juices to pot. Stir in sugar, 4 tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. black pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring and scraping up any brown bits, until most of the liquid is evaporated, 15–20 minutes; taste and season with salt and black pepper, if needed. Stir in raisins. Transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and chill at least 3 hours.

Preheat oven to 375°. Let dough sit at room temperature 15 minutes to temper. Remove 6 rounds from package, keeping plastic divider underneath, and arrange on a work surface. Place 2 Tbsp. filling in the center of each round. Top with 2 olive halves. Brush water around half of outer edge of each round. Using plastic divider to help you, fold round over filling and pinch edges to seal. Using a fork, crimp edges. Remove plastic and transfer empanada to a parchment-lined sheet tray, spacing 1″ apart. Repeat with remaining rounds (you’ll get about 12 empanadas on each tray).

Bake empanadas, rotating tray halfway through, until golden brown and slightly darker around the edges, 25–35 minutes.

Do Ahead: Filling can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled. Unbaked empanadas can be made 3 months ahead; freeze on sheet tray, then transfer to freezer bags and keep frozen.